Edinburgh in autumn - the magic of colorful leaves in the Scottish capital

Edinburgh is beautiful in all seasons, but I timed my trip for autumn because the sight of the colorful leaves makes this special city even more magical. Of course, you have to be prepared for the fact that it is cool and it can rain at any time, but don't let that scare you; we don't travel to Scotland for the beautiful weather anyway.

I booked a basic Ibis hotel (Ibis Edinburgh Centre Royal Mile) because Scotland is expensive, and I found this accommodation in a central location and still reasonably priced. I tried the breakfast once, then skipped it because it was pretty poor, and bought some for the next few days at the nearby Sainsbury's. Luckily there was a good cafe around the corner, so I easily got my obligatory morning latte.

The great advantage of Edinburgh is that it is very easy to get around on foot. As usual, I put together my own map of the sights that interest me, dressed warmly in the 8 degrees Celsius at the end of September (I realized that I was not normal, since I came here from the 27-degree summer in Barcelona), put away an umbrella and a scarf against the wind, which I immediately wrapped around myself outside, because otherwise I would have frozen, and then I set off. And I loved it. I was completely sucked in by this city. Despite the terrible weather, I could live here anytime. The Scots are kind and funny, and direct.

The most unique program options for an "Edinburgh in Autumn" trip

If we go a little further out of the city, we can meet the most authentic Scots, the Highland cows . I took an Uber to them, Swanston Farm, which is the closest “cow spot” to Edinburgh. The farm also states on its website that this is not a petting zoo, but a real farm dealing with ethical animal husbandry, so it actually depends on our luck how many cows we can see and how close we can get. Be prepared to walk a lot for the experience. I was lucky because the sun was shining exceptionally, so I felt quite pleasant walking in the rural environment, and the sight of the animals is worth anything anyway, especially knowing that the owners really do everything for the well-being of the cows.

The farm is very tidy, surrounded by beautiful green hills as far as the eye can see. It is worth stopping by the restaurant for at least a cup of tea, but you can also have lunch of course, although unfortunately there were no gluten-free dishes on the menu, so I left hungry :))

The Scots are famous for their whiskey, in addition to their cows . Edinburgh is cold in the fall, so a warm drink is always a good idea, and I was curious about the story of Johnny Walker, so I bought tickets for the Johnny Walker Experience on Princes Street on GetYourGuide. It was well worth it.

I was able to hear/see an interesting, spectacular immersive exhibition combined with a presentation about the establishment of the company and the general characteristics of Scotch whisky, and then the tasting followed!

First, they assessed our taste preferences, and then they recommended several cocktail variations accordingly, but we also got to taste very old, curious drinks. It's worth eating a large portion of steak or something similar before the program if you don't want the whiskey to go completely to your head, because they didn't skimp on the tasting.

There is another program that I highly recommend, and that is the bag making workshop at Islander. This opportunity is available in several places throughout the city, but it is worth booking a few weeks before your trip, as places fill up quickly. This super creative activity doesn't take too much time, you can choose the pieces that best suit your taste from a wide range of materials, colors and sizes, and then you make your own bag with the help of the instructor. I enjoyed every minute of it.

The Story of Greyfriars Bobby

Bobby was born in 1855, he was a Skye Terrier by breed, and as a police dog he accompanied his owner every day on street patrols. They did everything together, they were inseparable. They regularly went to the same restaurant, where the dog was very fond of, he always received a cake from the owner.

Unfortunately, his owner, John, died of tuberculosis and was laid to rest in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Bobby ran into the cemetery and the guards tried to distract him, but to no avail. After that, the dog lived in the cemetery for 14 years, by his owner's grave, only leaving his place to visit the inn for lunch each day.

When the first winter came, the locals built Bobby a doghouse to keep him warm. Finally, after 14 years in the cemetery, the loyal dog died in 1872 and was buried in the same place where his owner had been buried.

Finally, here comes the usual subjective recommendation of must-see attractions

• St Giles Cathedral

• Royal Mile

• Victoria Street

  Imagine walking down a steeply winding street lined with colourful houses, small shops and cafes – this is Edinburgh’s famous Victoria Street. It was built in the late 1820s to provide a modern, more spacious alternative to the city’s old, narrow alleys, but it still retains its medieval feel. The arches, split-level layout and small passageways all make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Once a place where merchants and artisans sold their wares, today it’s home to charming shops, bookshops and restaurants. It’s no coincidence that many say this street inspired JK Rowling to create Diagon Alley, famous for her Harry Potter stories: a unique blend of history and magic makes this place unforgettable.

• Edinburgh Castle

• Granny's Green Steps - view of the castle

• The Vennel Viewpoint

• The Mound

• Scott Monument

  The Scott Monument is a fitting memorial to Sir Walter Scott in the heart of Edinburgh, next to Princes Street Gardens. The 61-metre-high Gothic-style tower was completed in 1846 and is already a sight to behold from afar with its laced arches, sculptures and dark stones. Inside the monument, narrow spiral stairs lead up to four viewing platforms offering panoramic views of the city – the view of the castle, the Old Town and the surrounding hills is a special experience for every visitor. The statues include characters from Scott’s novels, making the work not only an architectural masterpiece but also a literary tribute. Due to its dark Gothic forms and historical background, the Scott Monument evokes the world of romance, mystery and Scottish literature at the same time.

• Ross Fountain

  Ross Fountain is one of Edinburgh’s most beautiful fountains, standing in the middle of Princes Street Gardens, with the castle in the background. The cast-iron fountain, made in Paris in the mid-19th century, was installed in the Scottish capital in 1872 after being purchased and gifted to the city by local businessman Daniel Ross. The fountain’s ornate, allegorical female figures and mythological sculptures evoke the artistic splendor of the Victorian era. Although it initially received a mixed reception – many considered it too ornate for the Scottish landscape – it has now become one of Edinburgh’s most iconic landmarks. Since its complete renovation in 2018, it has once again shone in its former glory, especially at sunset, when the shimmering, golden jets of water in front of the castle create a truly fairytale-like atmosphere in the park.

• Soldier Bear

  The Soldier Bear, or Wojtek, is one of the most touching monuments in Princes Street Gardens, commemorating a special hero of World War II. Wojtek was a brown bear who was found and raised by Polish soldiers and served with them during the war. Legend has it that he helped transport artillery ammunition at the Battle of Monte Cassino in Italy, becoming a beloved mascot and companion of the Polish army. The statue was unveiled in 2015 and depicts Wojtek with his human companion, a Polish soldier, symbolising the special friendship between animal and man. Today, the statue is not only a military memorial but also tells a touching story, making it one of Edinburgh’s most popular landmarks as a symbol of courage, loyalty and hope.

• Princes Street Gardens

• Princes Street

• Greyfriars Bobby's statue

• Writers' Museum

  The Writers' Museum is one of Edinburgh's hidden gems, celebrating the city's literary heritage. Located in the 17th-century Lady Stair's House, a small side street on the Royal Mile, it showcases the lives and works of three world-famous Scottish writers – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. The museum's atmosphere is captivating: as you wander through narrow stone steps, old wooden ceilings and period furniture, you can gain an insight into the golden age of Scottish literature. The exhibitions include manuscripts, personal items and first editions, bringing you closer to the creators who shaped Scotland's cultural identity. Although a lesser-known attraction, the Writers' Museum is a real journey through time for literature lovers and a great complement to a walk on the Royal Mile: if you don't have time to go inside, it's worth taking a look from the outside!

• New College

  New College is one of Edinburgh's most distinctive neo-Gothic buildings, located at the top of the Royal Mile, right next to Edinburgh Castle. It opened in 1846, primarily for theological training, and is still a functioning campus of the University of Edinburgh. It is worth visiting the inner courtyard, where you can take beautiful pictures and videos.

• Palace of Holyroodhouse

• Calton Hill

• Arthur's Seat

• Edinburgh Dungeon

  
  

• Black Moon Botanica

  Black Moon Botanica is a unique, mystical shop in the heart of Edinburgh, showcasing the alternative, spiritual side of the city. If you’re in town during Halloween, I think it’s a must-see. Here you’ll find not only handmade candles, herbal tea blends and essential oils, but also tarot cards, crystals and witchy accessories. Every detail of the shop is designed to immerse you in a small magical world: the shelves are overflowing with unique items, the air is filled with spicy and herbal scents, and the candlelight creates an intimate, mystical atmosphere. Black Moon Botanica is not just a shopping experience, but also a haven for those interested in spirituality, the power of nature or witch culture – making it the perfect destination for those who want to explore the city’s mysterious side alongside Edinburgh’s historical attractions.

  
  

• Armchair Books (the café on the top floor of the bookstore offers a beautiful view of the castle)

Restaurants, cafes

• The Milkman

• The Outsider

• Bread Meets Bread

• Frankenstein Bar

• Bertie's Proper Fish & Chips

  (best gluten-free fish & chips I've ever had, but also available in a non-gluten-free version)