Marseille – Mediterranean chaos that surprises you at first, makes you fall in love the second time

Marseille is not a city you understand right away. But if you give it a chance, if you let the noise of the streets, the smell of the sea and the southern French sunshine take hold of you, something grabs you – something raw, real and very much alive.

It is the oldest city in France, but it is not a dusty museum. Marseille is a true Mediterranean mix: French, Arab, African, Italian – yet very different and completely its own. The streets are filled with music, conversation, and the smell of food. No one whispers here. People live here.

Start your day around the Vieux-Port – in the old port, fishermen still sell their fresh catch while you watch the boats from the terraces of the cafes.

Then walk up to the Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica, which towers over the city - the view from here is absolutely fabulous, of the city, the sea, and in the background the If Castle , where the Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned (at least according to Dumas).

But Marseille is not really interesting for its sights. It's for how real it is. Wander through the Le Panier district, where the narrow streets are filled with colorful graffiti, cats and the noise of children. Sit in a tiny bistro where the owner speaks to you in French, even if it seems like you don't understand a word, but then you still get a perfect bouillabaisse - that legendary fish soup that you only know as a tourist trap elsewhere.

In the afternoon, you can enjoy a bit of beach atmosphere: near the city, small coves hide between the rocks of the Calanques – turquoise water, steep white cliffs, and if you’re lucky, your own little rocky beach. You can rent a kayak, go hiking or just lie down in the sun and watch the noise of the city fade away.

Marseille won't be everyone's favorite. But if you like places where everything is not perfect, but there is a little bit of reality in everything - then this city will get you. And you won't soon forget a sunset on the shores of the harbor, with a pastis in your hand, some Arabic music in the background - and you feel: this is really life now .

Marseille's gastronomy is a true melting pot of Mediterranean flavors – fresh, spicy, seafood and sun-ripened. The city's most famous dish is undoubtedly bouillabaisse, a thick fish soup made with various shellfish, saffron and garlic, and served with crispy toast and a thick rouille sauce. But if you're looking for something quicker, there's panisse, a fried snack made from chickpea flour, or pieds paquets, a real local specialty made from lamb's leg and stuffed stomach – only for the brave! Fresh fish and seafood are on every menu, and it's worth trying the famous pastis , an aniseed aperitif that locals sip with cold water in the afternoon sun. The dishes are both simple and full of character – just like Marseille.

In Marseille, the topic of public safety is often exaggerated in the news – it is true that it is a big city, lively, diverse, sometimes chaotic, but the areas frequented by tourists, such as the Vieux-Port, Le Panier or the Calanques, are generally safe if you use common sense. As in any other major city in southern Europe, it is worth watching out for pickpockets, especially on public transport or in crowded markets, and it is not advisable to wander alone in deserted suburban areas at night. However, most travelers have no problem enjoying Marseille’s lively, raw, yet welcoming atmosphere – it just takes a little urban routine.