Marseille is not a city you understand right away. But if you give it a chance, if you let the noise of the streets, the smell of the sea and the southern French sunshine take hold of you, something grabs you – something raw, real and very much alive. It is the oldest city in France, but it is not a dusty museum. Marseille is a true Mediterranean mix: French, Arab, African, Italian – yet very different and completely its own. The streets are filled with music, conversation, a